Icebergs Astern

Our notice before we turned north and left the icebergs astern stated: "The Drake may not be quite as kind to us as on the way down....but, what an opportunity to understand what all the fuss is about. Maybe put on the (scopolamine) patch tonight the 27th before sleeping. Be sure that breakable items are carefully stowed before retiring this evening. The 28th should start out fairly gentle, and reveal itself as the day goes on. Often referred to as the "Drake Tax", it must be paid for the astounding beauty of the icy continent."

Seas the morning of the 28th.

"The Drake Passage is considered one of the most treacherous voyages for ships to make. Currents at this latitude meet no resistance from any landmass, and waves can top 40 feet, hence it reputation as "the most powerful convergence of seas. As the Drake Passage is the narrowest passage around Antarctica, its existence and shape strongly influence the circulation of water around Antarctica and the global oceanic circulation, as well as the global climate" ~Wikipedia

The current in the Drake is west to east. On our trip south, we had a following wind and the influence of a High pressure area. There were waves and wind but our passage was relatively calm due to the stabilizing ability of the Resolution. On our way back north, a Low pressure system, with gale force winds, slammed up against the high. Think of all the lines running counterclockwise (cyclonic) on our evening weather news, converging into a near solid black line. Looking at "Windy" website graphics, we knew we were in for quite a ride. With the wind and prevailing waves from the west the, Port (west) side cabins of the boat received extra precautions. Deck 4 windows were covered with wooden inserts and on Deck 5 and 6, all dividers between cabin decks were removed along with all tables and chairs. 

Captain Marvin steered us on a NE course to skirt the worst of the storm as long as possible. The night of the 27th and morning of the 28th were only slightly worse than our southerly passage.  My deck table and chairs were strapped down but, I decided to hang my hammock anyway to enjoy the sway - abet limited by the table and a chair. CJ came in later that morning to take it down. I had her take my picture before we did.

Cape Petrels entertained us as as we ate breakfast the morning of the 28th and throughout the day. Large flocks took advantage of the "lift" off the waves to perform aerial acrobatics alongside the ship.

Cape Petrels, also called the Cape Pigeon, Pintado Petrel or Cape Fuma, are extremely common seabirds with an estimated population around 2 million. During breeding season, Cape Petrels feed around Antarctica's shelf and during the winter they range further north, as far as Angola and the Galapagos Islands. 

Image copied from Wikipedia

Cape Petrels, when fully grown, are 14-16" long and have a wing span of 31-35". They have a salt gland situated above the nasal passage that helps desalinate their bodies of the high amount of ocean water they ingest. Their bills are unique in that they are split into between seven or nine horny plates which the saline solution is excreted through their noses. Cape Petrels produce a stomach oil made up of wax esters and triglycerides that is stored in their digestive track. This is sprayed out of their mouths as a defensive against predators; adults during territorial fights and; as an energy rich food source for chicks and for adults during long flights. 

After breakfast, we heard/watched presentations on Whale ID, biology and behavior and Polar Environmental Governance.

As the day progressed, the seas grew more impressive. 

The Petrels and an occasional Albatros remained our traveling companions.

During the afternoon we had presentations on Antarctic Paleontology and one from our Nat Geo photographer, Nick, titled "How to shoot like a National Geographic Photographer".

With the seas becoming more turbulent, the evening cocktail hour and recap had notably fewer attendees.